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The case is 39mm wide, 12.8mm thick, and 47.8mm lug-to-lug. That makes it essentially identical in size to that of a standard Black Bay 39, aside from being ~0.9mm thicker. Don't forget about the pre-existing Black Bay GMT and its 41 x 14.6 x 50mm sizing, and let's also not forget the Black Bay Pro, itself a dual time zone model that is also 39mm wide – but 14.6mm thick. If you were asking for a slimmer GMT from Tudor, they were listening.

Brown approaches his own timepieces as heirlooms: "I look at it with an eye towards what I can pass on to my two boys, and I would love for the story to begin with me. Now, if I had my uncle's watch that would be one thing, or something from my grandfather or my dad – something that was in my family that is worth holding onto. So it would be vintage in terms of a story connected to family, but other than that, I can be the initiator or progenitor."

It's not that I think it's bad; it just isn't to my taste, and I'd love to see a version that was a bit more muted. Keep the blue/red bezel, but maybe opt for a flat black dial or match the blue to that of the bezel. This is, of course, deeply subjective, and I am the first to admit that, at times, I can lose the plot between carpeting the world or just putting on some slippers. Maybe one of the other two versions would hit a little closer to home.

The Memovox Polaris is presented in a "supercompressor" case made by Piquerez. The caseback is composed of three elements: a brass inner back enabling the alarm to resonate, a steel back with a spring compression system, ensuring 200m of water resistance, and an additional 16-hole perforated outer caseback which gives the alarm sound more power. This sound is also more of a rattle than a ring, but with the intensity of a tropical bird call!

I think that, as a company, the one place where Zenith could do a little bit more is in raising awareness of the brand, the history, the philosophy, the design. Just the name alone, it's not as well-known as we all want to think.

Six years later and Trilobe has officially arrived, exhibiting everywhere, including Watches & Wonders and Geneva Watch Days, earning nominations from the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve Academy, and offering no less than three different collections, all built around the same eccentric three-ringed time display.

The Louis-Ulysse Chopard collection, better known as the L.U.C collection, with its laser focus on vertical integration and truly "in-house" watchmaking at the highest level, has put Chopard in the conversation alongside brands like Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Sohne. This should not come as news to regular readers of Hodinkee but is important to call out before introducing the latest additions to the brand's COSC-certified and Geneva Seal-ed lineup.

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